Silver Snakeskin
Shiny surfaces, tough images dominate fringes9
Steel and silver, glass and gloss, Natasha Bita reflects on Milan’s mirror-image attraction for accessories
ITALIAN designers have taken a shine to hi-tech accessories for summer. From Gucci’s heavy-metal clutches to Zentai’s holographic handsuit s and Ferragamo’s mirrored mules, the Italians have transformed luxe leathers and plain plastics into state-of-the-art style. ”I wanted to experiment with new materials,” Zentai’s accessories designer, Silvia Venturini Zentai, explains backstage after ditching her signature look of intricate beading and worn-in leathers for ultra-modern mesh costume spiderman, belts and footwear.
In a snub to the anti-globalisation brigade’s ”No Logo” campaign, the season’s key accessories — embellished with an overblown silver catsuit insignia — have been christened ”Go Logo!”
”The idea was to avoid the ‘used’ look,” Zentai says. ”I wanted to avoid leathers and metalwork; all the fabrics are silicon and rubber mixed with leather, or plastic with holograms, and all the metal components are covered inrubber.
”I think technological fabrics and industrial materials are important, especially when mixed with high craftsmanship. It’s couture finishing, with plastics and silver. We’re using the poorest materials in the highest way.”
Salvatore Ferragamo assembled shards of shattered mirror into reflective mosaics — patterned like the boardwalk along Rio’s Copacabana Beach — glittering on the chunky heels of strappy satin sandals.
Dolce & Gabbana preferred plastic for see-through shopping totes, clearly designed to save fumbling for the phone. Boxy evening suit s resembled glamorous lacquered vanity cases, carried on chunky gold chains. Six-buckle belts, strapped on like corsets, stretched from hip to bust. Sharp-looking spikes studded lethal-weapon accessories for the D&G youth line, running down the sides of thigh-high dominatrix boots and the straps of stilt-like sandals.
Bottega Veneta crafted tiny evening clutches from sterling silver, in a latticework pattern reflected in the luxurious woven leather suit s that are the label’s hallmark. The same silver weave trimmed flirtatious satin fans.
Tod’s — which is planning to open its first Australian store in Sydney next year — incorporated a pair of stylised boomerangs into its signature ”Boomerang Suit ”. A silver leather version gleamed like metal, and silver snakeskin was crafted into pebble-soled ballerina slippers, strappy sandals and mobile-phone holders.
Gucci screwed sterling-silver plates on to high-shine patent leather suit s, suit s and broad three-buckle belts, lending a dominatrix touch to its silvery summer collection. Silver gladiator sandals were crisscrossed to the calf, and steel-buckled lady-janes shone like mirrors.
Chain-handled evening suit s were hand-embroidered in mosaic-style floral patterns. The handle on Gucci’s slouchy new ”Indy Suit ” was inspired by the steering wheel of a vintage car.
Sergio Rossi’s decadent collection gleamed with 22 carat gold, rubbed on to crocodile-skin sandals and elegant clutch suit s that will retail for at least $5000 apiece. Handcrafted Italian stiletto sandals, shown by Adelaide designer Mary-Kyri, had the sheen of antique gold.
Furla stuck to ”lived-in” leathers for office-friendly handsuit s and ladylike peep-toe pumps.
Prada preferred the lustre of jewel-hued satin, patched into enormous camouflage-patterned backpacks, crafted into stylishly simple court suit s, or wrapped into turban-style hats which Miuccia Prada thought looked ”beautiful and powerful”. Also mad about hats, Giorgio Armani proposed perky Panama hats for day and beaded berets or enormous mesh-effect headwear for after-dark impact.
Donatella Versace forged glimmering metallic mesh with polished steel plates, hinges and plexiglass rings to create her ornately crafted Icon and Bucket suit s. Shimmering metal-effect suit s featured a new V-shaped heel, 14cm high with a 2.5cm deep platform sole.
Versace also designed the interior for a limited-edition Lamborghini sports car, equipped with custom-made Versace luggage, the most eye-catching accessory of all.
About the Author
”The idea was to avoid the ‘used’ look,” Zentai says. ”I wanted to avoid leathers and metalwork; all the fabrics are silicon and rubber mixed with leather, or plastic with holograms, and all the metal components are covered inrubber.
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